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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.